Our food editor Rosalie Saferstein recently had a memorable dinner at the newly opened Stone House at Stirling Ridge (www.stirlingridgeevents.com), in Warren. Here’s her report.

How could we not dine at a restaurant that serves a modern version of the Yodel (that frosted, cream-filled, chocolate cousin of a Twinkie), and has a chef’s table?

We jumped at the opportunity to attend a dinner at this exquisite restaurant/catering hall, set on 10 acres. A wood-burning fireplace, skylights, custom chandeliers, lots of stone walls, and countless white chunky candles create a seductive mood. The jaw dropper, though, is a two-story steel and glass tower that holds 1,400 wine bottles, and a floating wine room over the kitchen that is also made of glass and houses 2,500 bottles.

We sat adjacent to the kitchen, at a massive oak and steel table, in a glass-enclosed private dining space from where we watched executive chef Jerry Villa and his staff prepare our meal. Patrons can reserve this room, which seats 8 to 16 guests.

Our eight-course tasting dinner with wine consisted of: baby iceberg with prosciutto and blue cheese; venison carpaccio; strozzapreti with veal ragu; sea bass with bok choy and mei fun noodles; herb-seared tuna; braised short ribs with hoisin; and pepper-crusted sirloin. Thankfully, portions were small. Certified sommelier Yasir Chaudhry presented each wine, and we were partial to the 2006 Coldstream Hills Yarra Valley Pinot Noir, served with the pasta. An interesting twist was a pairing of sake with the bass.

A scrumptious dessert plate (see photo) contained a three-nut tart, a bananas foster “wrap,” house-made ice creams, chocolate bread pudding, fudge sorbet, and a truffle. Alas, we must return to Stone House soon as we were not served the Yodel.

Stone House at Stirling Ridge is at 50 Stirling Avenue, Warren (908-754-0082).

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